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Author Topic: GM TRE reamer  (Read 4009 times)

Day215

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GM TRE reamer
« on: April 08, 2013, 01:37:13 PM »

I'm looking at picking up a Y link setup from Ruff Stuff, I'm not ready for high steer and don't want to pop for stock replacements. Does anyone have a reamer they would be willing to rent out to me?
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

norcal_chris

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2013, 02:50:15 PM »

Wfo does it for 10 $ a hole.  Im pretty sure there steering setup is cheaper too.
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Ruined a perfectly good jeep.

timatoe

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2013, 04:02:56 PM »

I bought the reamer from WFO then proceeded to ream the first hole in the knuckle too deep.  I ended up drilling them straight through and using the tapered inserts from RS.  Just a thought. 
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Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2013, 05:02:42 PM »

Ruffstuff gives a pirate discount, not sure about WFO. WFO doesn't list the TRE type, but I'm sure it's standard one ton stuff.

I didn't even think about the inserts, part of my hesitation was the cost of the reamer and the possibility of over reaming the knuckles.

Tim,
        Did you weld the inserts in place? The website doesn't say anything about welding them in, it looks like they can just drop in.
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

timatoe

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2013, 05:54:55 PM »

I didn't weld them in place.  I sorta thought of it for a second but didn't really see a need.  RS also gives a Jeep Forum discount of 10% don't know if that's the same as the Pirate discount or not.  WFO actually carries a bunch of RS stuff there in their shop too.  If you're picking up you don't have to drive to Nevada County if you go to RS, but if you're shipping it I'd go with whatever works best for you.  I had my RS tie rod stuff shipped cause for $15, I can't drive to Loomis and back.
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Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2013, 03:32:45 PM »

Ill ask this question in this thread so we don't have a new one.

I'm measuring for my new tie rod and draglink. With the current setup, I have an overall lengjt of 52" for the tierod and 32" for the draglink, this is measured center hole to center hole on the knuckles and pitman to passenger TRE.

Using the 52" tierod as my example, would I make the length of my new setup just slightly shorter to allow for adjustments? How much shorter, 1/4" 1/2" etc? My thought is to have as much of the threaded shank of the TRE's in the tube as possible.
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

pdangerp

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2013, 03:38:57 PM »

Probably depends on how far you plan on tapping the hole for the tre. Also how long are the tres? Are you doing tubing or solid barstock?
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Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2013, 03:48:51 PM »

1.5 OD DOM with threaded weld bungs tapped to 7/8" for the TREs. The TRE's are fairly long, I just don't want the outer ends of the links to be comprised of threads rather than sold tubing. I came across a few posts that stated 1-1/2 times the diameter of the hole, so if I call the 7/8" hole 1", I would need 2-2 1/2" worth of thread engagement.

I think I'll set the overall length with the TRE's threaded 2/3's of the way in, this should give me adequate adjustment as well as more than enough thread engagment, I'm open to input
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

connor0770

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-97 TJ, 35's, Currie 4" lift, Dana 30 w/ ARB, 8.8, Trail Gear Front Bumper With w/ XRC8, LOD Tire Carrier, UCF Tummy Tuck, Smittybuilt Corners, Poison Spider Sliders

Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2013, 05:40:26 AM »

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/dana-30-axle-shafts-otk-dana-30-knuckles-1510813/

Thanks for the link, I picked up some knuckle inserts rather than having to buy a reamer or new knuckles.
Logged
92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2013, 07:42:08 PM »

I think I hit a snag in my steering adventure. I'm in the process of drilling out an astro can pitman arm to accommodate a 1" insert, rather than reaming out the pitman arm. Here's the issue, the insert is deeper than the pitman arm itself, if I trim the insert, then the TRE is going to be all sloppy. It seems like reaming is the only way around it, any suggestions?

Tim,
       What did you do with your setup?
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

norcal_chris

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  • always down to wheel
Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2013, 07:50:01 PM »

I think I hit a snag in my steering adventure. I'm in the process of drilling out an astro can pitman arm to accommodate a 1" insert, rather than reaming out the pitman arm. Here's the issue, the insert is deeper than the pitman arm itself, if I trim the insert, then the TRE is going to be all sloppy. It seems like reaming is the only way around it, any suggestions?

Tim,
       What did you do with your setup?


If you trim the bottom of the insert it shouldnt matter.   The tre is going to be forced into the cone on the top and that is going to suck it down into the insert.
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Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2013, 08:25:54 PM »

I think I hit a snag in my steering adventure. I'm in the process of drilling out an astro can pitman arm to accommodate a 1" insert, rather than reaming out the pitman arm. Here's the issue, the insert is deeper than the pitman arm itself, if I trim the insert, then the TRE is going to be all sloppy. It seems like reaming is the only way around it, any suggestions?

Tim,
       What did you do with your setup?


If you trim the bottom of the insert it shouldnt matter.   The tre is going to be forced into the cone on the top and that is going to suck it down into the insert.

By the bottom, you would be talking about the side of the insert without the lip, the larger portion of the taper? I'm having trouble envisioning it. Does the TRE body not need to seat flat against the pitman arm, I guess that wouldn't let it move though. How much distance should there be from the pitman arm to the TRE body?
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

timatoe

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2013, 07:15:39 AM »

I didn't have any issue with the knuckles.  I left the draglink with the stock tre's.  The end of the insert with the lip should go toward the tre and have the larger opening, so you should be able to trim the other side flush.  If you end up with too much of the tre sticking out and can't get it tight you may have to add a washer.  Hope that makes sense.
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Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #14 on: May 18, 2013, 08:26:03 AM »

I didn't have any issue with the knuckles.  I left the draglink with the stock tre's.  The end of the insert with the lip should go toward the tre and have the larger opening, so you should be able to trim the other side flush.  If you end up with too much of the tre sticking out and can't get it tight you may have to add a washer.  Hope that makes sense.

It makes sense in my head, but not so much when I hold the parts in my hand. The larger insert that I picked up from Ruffstuff, has the lip facing away from the TRE body, it's the narrow end.

It would seem that trimming the end would only leave me with a bunch of the tapered end of the TRE stud sticking out from the face of the pitman arm. The smaller inserts have a slit cut in them, allowing them to expand when tightened, the large one does not. It's only an $11 pitman arm, but I would hate to have to drill out another one all over again.
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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

timatoe

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #15 on: May 18, 2013, 08:16:15 PM »

Oh, I didn't realize there were two inserts.  I used the ones that need a 7/8's hole with the slit in the side......  http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER.html

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Day215

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #16 on: May 18, 2013, 10:14:13 PM »

Is that what you used for the pitman arm too? Are you using an ES2027 or ES2026 TRE at the pitman arm? The taper is larger on the high angle TRE, ruffstuff gave me the new insert to work with the larger taper. I suppose over drilling the hole combined with the slit in the 7/8 insert would allow the insert to open up for the larger taper. I trimmed off the excess, it was about a 1/4", here's how it sits. The top of the insert would be flush with the top of the pitman arm, it should suck down a little bit when tightened, but not much.

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92 Toyota minitruck Front Dana 60 4.88s, Lincoln locked, drive slugs blah blah blah. Rear Dana 70 4.88s, Lincoln locked, 63 chevys. W56 5speed, 2.28 duals, 22re. 39.5s and other stuff. Bobbed, exod, cut up etc. I used to wheel a YJ, then I defected. Now no one talks to me anymore.....cant completly blame that on the switch though.

I'm out of the club. Stay away from my wiener.

timatoe

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Re: GM TRE reamer
« Reply #17 on: May 19, 2013, 04:48:58 AM »

I'm still using stock tre's at the pitman arm and the JB bracket at the knuckle.  I think that'll work, the taper is what's holding it in place.  Maybe you can find a big enough washer to go between the pitman arm and the rubber boot just to keep it a little closer so it's not blowing out the end from the grease.
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