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Author Topic: Car stereo speaker wiring?  (Read 1555 times)

Screaming Bear

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Car stereo speaker wiring?
« on: February 27, 2015, 01:52:51 PM »

The previous owner installed a new system in my RV and said the speakers used a common ground on each pair. The problem is when I adjust the fader off center the sound gets horrible. Those same speakers sound fine when the fader is centered to 0.
I can verify + and -, but running an extra wire will be a pain in the ass. Anyone know if common ground is a bad idea?
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51 CJ3-A, 4.3 TBI Chevy, SM420, Dana 18TC, 30/44 Full Floaters, Yukon Front Axle and Hubs, rear drive flanges, Detroit Fr / E-Locker Rr, 4.27:1 Gears, 74:1, HD steering / 4 wheel disk brakes, Viair 550C, 100% LED - VisionX headlights, Rigid Light-bar, DOT Fogs, Grote tail, Soft Top and Heater, 35"KM-2's, 3" up, no articulation - it works

Anticanman

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2015, 02:40:19 PM »

I wouldn't ever run a common ground to speakers. Each channel needs its own positive and negative to maintain clarity.
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Asian in stock JKU initiated wave... be jealous fool
I said screw it. I'm going for the tranny tonight.

Screaming Bear

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2015, 04:00:59 PM »

I wouldn't ever run a common ground to speakers. Each channel needs its own positive and negative to maintain clarity.
Yeah, I wouldn't either but Fleetwood did from the factory. Sound is fine as long as I don't bias the fader off zero.
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51 CJ3-A, 4.3 TBI Chevy, SM420, Dana 18TC, 30/44 Full Floaters, Yukon Front Axle and Hubs, rear drive flanges, Detroit Fr / E-Locker Rr, 4.27:1 Gears, 74:1, HD steering / 4 wheel disk brakes, Viair 550C, 100% LED - VisionX headlights, Rigid Light-bar, DOT Fogs, Grote tail, Soft Top and Heater, 35"KM-2's, 3" up, no articulation - it works

Mr.B

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2015, 05:21:31 PM »

Ah man, When I opened this thread, I was expecting to see that you were putting a stereo in Barbie! :rockon:

As far as I remember, I've never wired a car stereo with a common ground.
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White '94 YJ 2.5L 5 speed, 35" BFGs KM2's, 5" lift, Mark VII 2 speed fan, Milemarker PE8000, Front Aussie Locker, Power steering conversion, '98 Cavalier seats, MORE Boomerangs in front, 136 amp ZJ alternator, JB conversions SYE, Tom Woods custom drive shaft, 8.8 with ARB, 4.88 gear ratio, Teralow

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timatoe

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2015, 05:42:48 PM »

I haven't ever wired one that way and I've done at least dozens.  Just don't fade.
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Screaming Bear

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2015, 06:58:05 PM »

Ah man, When I opened this thread, I was expecting to see that you were putting a stereo in Barbie! :rockon:

As far as I remember, I've never wired a car stereo with a common ground.
I have a nice deck and plenty of speakers, just don't need one in the Jeep. Ipod with earbuds works fine if I feel the need for tunes.
With all the wire in the RV you think they could have run one more 28 foot strand. I guess the consensus is you can't do it that way. I can live with it.
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51 CJ3-A, 4.3 TBI Chevy, SM420, Dana 18TC, 30/44 Full Floaters, Yukon Front Axle and Hubs, rear drive flanges, Detroit Fr / E-Locker Rr, 4.27:1 Gears, 74:1, HD steering / 4 wheel disk brakes, Viair 550C, 100% LED - VisionX headlights, Rigid Light-bar, DOT Fogs, Grote tail, Soft Top and Heater, 35"KM-2's, 3" up, no articulation - it works

typeone

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2015, 07:53:25 PM »

"common" is more of an AC thing you don't want to share "negatives" in a DC circuit.
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MajorAssman

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2015, 10:44:10 AM »

Audio uses AC. If DC current goes through speakers it will ruin them. They might have done it to bridge them but they would have to have a common positive too.
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Screaming Bear

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2015, 07:39:17 PM »

 I'm not rewiring the RV so I don't use the fader. Sounds good at 0/0 fade/balance. Thanks

On a side note: remember our discussion on curing RF interference on my CB? I sent the CB to Cobra to replace the broken LCD. They ended up giving me a brand new 75WXST for the flat rate repair charge of $48. It works great, no RF from my fuel pump any more.  :thumbsup:

You can lock this thread Ben.
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51 CJ3-A, 4.3 TBI Chevy, SM420, Dana 18TC, 30/44 Full Floaters, Yukon Front Axle and Hubs, rear drive flanges, Detroit Fr / E-Locker Rr, 4.27:1 Gears, 74:1, HD steering / 4 wheel disk brakes, Viair 550C, 100% LED - VisionX headlights, Rigid Light-bar, DOT Fogs, Grote tail, Soft Top and Heater, 35"KM-2's, 3" up, no articulation - it works

Mr.B

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2015, 11:21:54 PM »

Wait, you mean all I have to do is send my 75WXST back to Cobra, with its crappy volume control and internal open ground,(which I fixed) and they'll send me a new one for $48?
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White '94 YJ 2.5L 5 speed, 35" BFGs KM2's, 5" lift, Mark VII 2 speed fan, Milemarker PE8000, Front Aussie Locker, Power steering conversion, '98 Cavalier seats, MORE Boomerangs in front, 136 amp ZJ alternator, JB conversions SYE, Tom Woods custom drive shaft, 8.8 with ARB, 4.88 gear ratio, Teralow

You're a super genius....
The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits. -Albert Einstein

Screaming Bear

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Re: Car stereo speaker wiring?
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2015, 07:33:50 AM »

Wait, you mean all I have to do is send my 75WXST back to Cobra, with its crappy volume control and internal open ground,(which I fixed) and they'll send me a new one for $48?
Yep, if they can't fix it. If what they sent me was a refurbished unit, I can't tell the difference. I emailed them for the quote (flat rate $48) and they sent me an RA# and address.
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51 CJ3-A, 4.3 TBI Chevy, SM420, Dana 18TC, 30/44 Full Floaters, Yukon Front Axle and Hubs, rear drive flanges, Detroit Fr / E-Locker Rr, 4.27:1 Gears, 74:1, HD steering / 4 wheel disk brakes, Viair 550C, 100% LED - VisionX headlights, Rigid Light-bar, DOT Fogs, Grote tail, Soft Top and Heater, 35"KM-2's, 3" up, no articulation - it works